How to paint
Tools
Brushes
Pigments
Paper
Your studio
Getting Started
Color Theory
Technique
Matting
Documentation
Documentation 2
Documentation 3
Glossary
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Photograph and document your work.
You are pleased with the paintings you've made and
would like to photograph them. Artists take, slide transparencies of their work
for several reasons: Documentation of works sold and works on hand, reproduction to CD or disk, a web page, and as slide documentation for grants, and venue proposals. Whatever the reason, it's good to know how to document your work through photography.
I shoot my own work, but on occasion I use professional photographers and judge my own photos against their's to ensure the quality of my images.
you'll need:
Either a 35mm single lense reflex (SLR) camera or a digital camera of at least 3.2 megapixels. Either should have a good lenses. The 35 mm camera I use is all manual. I don't trust auto-focus lenses though the digital camera I have is accurate, its auto exposure is accurate as well. I prefer setting exposures manually so I can bracket the exposures. Doing so ensures an accuate exposure everytime.
A tripod. You don't need the best, but it should be easily adjustable and stable.
A 12 inch cable release. The self-timer on the camera will work, but it's slower and less convenient. The digital camera I use doesn't support a camera release and is less convenient.
A
polarizing filter. Reduces glare. Necessary if
your work is already glazed. Again, the digital camera won't take filters.
Light source. Natural daylight or color corrected photoflood lamps for indoor studio shooting. I use 2 Wiko® 250W, 120V, 1700 Kelvin
photofloods. These are balanced for Kodak® Ektachrome T Tungsten 35mm slide film. This combination of slide film and floods gives the truest color results after natural sunlight.
2 or more Light fixtures. Utility lights, those with an 8-1/2
in. polished aluminum reflector and squeeze clamp. Can be purchased at a local hardware store. These work very well. Caution, don't leave these light fixtures on for long periods of time or unattended while on. These fixtures are not rated for the Tungsten T lamps.
A pair of stands or supports to clamp the light fixtures to.
Photo stands, high backed chairs, ladders, etc. A wooden 6 foot closet rod buried in plaster or cement within a 1 gallon milk jug works well and doesn't take up much space.
One or more extension cords.
Slide film. I prefer Kodak® Ektachrome T Tungsten 35mm
slide film. Available in 64 and 160 ISO, and
20 or 36 exposures. I prefer the 160 ISO for wider
exposure range.
A wall, easel, even a step ladder to hang or rest the work upon while shooting.
A black or medium to dark grey back drop. I use a 4 foot by 4 foot piece of black foamboard.
A measuring tape. For measuring lense and painting height as well as distance from camera lense to painting.
A computer is necessary when taking pictures using a digital camera. I prefer Apple Macintosh computers as do many graphic art and fine art professionals. Imaging software is necessary.
Adobe Photoshop is the industry standard and most likely the best, but it is expensive. Adobe also sells a downgraded version which is much more affordable. A personal favorite which is a very affordable shareware program is
Graphic Converter. Adobe products are cross platform whereas Graphic Converter is Macintosh only. Gimp.app is an alternative freeware graphic application for Mac, but requires Apple's X11 or ZDarwin be installed.
Most venues today prefer viewing digital images on compact disks. Fewer venues still prefer reviewing slides. A CD burner is a must to burn your images and an external hard drive is important to store your digital imabes.
I often have postcards made of my work for shows and invitations. The printing house prefers receiving image files via compact disks or broadband.
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